A Brief History
sheared from
the sheep twice a year, in the spring and in the autumn. Generally the wool
from the spring shearing is considered superior and is used for making most
rugs, bags, and clothing. Wool from the autumn shearing or from dead animals
is less fine and is used mainly for making felts or tent fabrics. In some areas,
tribal weavers also use cotton. Although cotton is actually more stable than
wool, it is less durable and often more expensive than wool, so its use is
limited. Finally, a much smaller number of rugs are made using silk,
which is typically purchased from traders who bring it from manufacturing
centers far away from the tribal areas.
|
the fibers several times.
Once clean,
the raw fibers are spun into threads using a weighted object called a spindle.
When a twist of the raw wool or cotton is attached to the spindle and the
spindle is spun and dropped, it pulls the fibers out of the bunch and winds
them into a long thread. After several threads have been made, they are in
turn spun together to form a yarn. Typically two or three threads will be
used to form a yarn. Yarn is normally spun in the opposite direction from the
threads so that the fibers will bind together more tightly.
|
and iron sulfate.
Once the yarn has been treated it is ready to be dyed. Traditionally the dyes
used are made from natural local plants. For example, the madder plant
yields a red dye, milkweed and buckthorn produce yellow, dyer’s woad and
indigo produce blue, while browns and blacks can be made using walnut shells
or iron filings. Since the late nineteenth century, some tribal weavers have
also been using factory-produced chemical dyes. Most yarn is dyed in batches.
Sometimes when the dye runs out in the middle of the dyeing process, the batch
is finished with another dye lot. This produces yarns with slightly different
colors that, when woven together, produce a chromatic shading effect called
abrash, which is greatly admired by many Western collectors.
|
determine the basic size
and shape of the rug. Alternate warps are then attached to horizontal bars
called heddles. When the heddles are raised and lowered, they create a space
between the warps that is called the shed. Another yarn, called a weft, is
attached to a weighted object, called a shuttle, and passed back and forth
through the shed. Alternating which warps are raised and which are lowered
produces a fabric of interlocked yarns that is called a plainweave. Sometimes
each weft will be beaten
down on top of the previous one to create a fabric in which only the wefts
are visible. This type of fabric is called a tapestry weave (or kilim weave.)
Other times the wefts will be wrapped around the warps according to a set
pattern to create a more textured fabric that is known as a sumak weave
(or brocade weave.) Finally, the weaver can tie extra bits of yarn to the warps
between one or more rows of wefts. The extra bits of yarn, which can be
tied in either symmetric or asymmetric knots opening either to the left or
to the right, stick up above the warp and weft foundation to create a pile
weave. In some cases, several different weaving techniques may be employed
together to produce a rug that has a variety of textures and visual
effects.
|
|
|
|
|
Weaving |
Tieing knots |
Horizontal Loom |
Hand Knotting |
Hand-tufted and hand-hooked rugs are produced in much the same way. A tufting
gun that works much like an over size sewing needle is used to push and pull
threads of yarn through a pre-woven grid foundation. With a hooked rug,
the loops of yarn are left intact to form a characteristically "knobby" pile.
In a tufted rug, the tops of loops are sheared to expose the thread ends for
a softer and plusher pile.
|
|